Attn: Prana and Herring

[tricky-fist]

Hey Guys,

Actually, it might be best if I e-mail you guys off-line about my querry seeing as it isn't really related to kung-fu. Ah... well, I' gigress anyways...

I had some questions about climbing actually... I haven't been doing it all that long (started indoors in February) and I just started leading sport two months ago. I find that it really does help keep me fit on top of my kung-fu and/or cardio, but for the first couple of months my hands swelled up a lot... so much so that I couldn't even make a fist. That's not an issue now, but I was wondering about something else.

I led my first sport route outside last Friday. Previous to this I had learned to lead on 5.10s in the gym... ha, which is like what 5.7 outside in the real world?!! Seriously though, I fell a lot, but I found that leading noticeably improved my climbing in a short period of time... At any rate, the lead outside was a 5.9 sport route on a 30 meter slab (nice runout in the middle) and it was my first, real, official "onsight"! Woohoo!

At any rate, I'm hooked. I can't not lead anymore if that makes any sense. At any rate, I had two questions for you guys:

1) Is it unreasonable for me to plan to build a rack and start leading on gear for next summer? I don't care about grades in this case... I would be ecstatic to lead a 5.4 solid on gear. Most of the best climbs in my area are mixed climbs too, bolts and pro... so you really are forced to learn how to place gear.

2) How much does your climbing cut into your kung-fu training? Man, I've been doing this for nine months and it's become a religion for me!!! The main impediment to my kung-fu has been recovery time from climbing (the hand swelling thing)... so I am wondering if it is possible to strike a good balance?

Anyhoo, thanks in advance for your imput!

Respects,
TF

" I'll play it first, then tell you what it is later..."
- Miles Davis

[prana]

I gave MA training after 11 years of training, and trained full-time for climbing. I was competitive when I was younger, but I managed to break out of that viciuos cycle.

IMO, it is not good for soft style Martial Arts. It makes one stiff and unable to "listen". Another point I can think of is that it builds a greater muscle imbalance in your shoulders/back and really negates the use of smaller muscle groups in martial arts. So take it easy on teh climbing.

1. Definitnely get yourself a rack and go lead something for fun. But please, learn safely. I have spent all my savings in thepast for climbing gear.

With your hands swelling up, make sure you stretch, and warm up properly.


Climb safe climb fun !

[tricky-fist]

Hey Prana!

Thanks very much for the encouraging words!

I talked with a couple of the long-time trad climbers last night at the gym about my possible plans. The response I got was pretty much the same: go for it! They all know I'm confortable on lead, and they told me our local crags are full of great easies to practice placing gear on. I also got an offer to second, clean and get feedback on leading routes with an incredibly experiences trad leader.

As for the martial arts... well. I will continue for the sake of muscular and mental balance, but I've really tired of the martial world as of late. I don't really know how to put it... I'm just tired of all the talk. Climbing is so refreshingly "pure" in comparison. Most likely this is due to its novelty, but the line between training to climb and climbing seems less than the line between practicing martial arts and "doing" or fighting.

I dunno, I just came to the realization that I don't want to learn how to fight... after about eight years of tinkering around.

As for the competitive streak... well, I fenced varsity for all of university and retired due to my competitive nature. I really felt that staying wouldn't have offered the opportunities for self-growth that I needed. Climbing seems to fill that need right now.

Anyhoo, thanks again. Your concern is noted on my part in all seriousness... don't worry, I fully intend to learn to place my gear over a long period of time, and under the supervision of experienced leaders. This winter I might even get to do a bit of aid :)

Respects,
TF

" I'll play it first, then tell you what it is later..."
- Miles Davis

[herring]

Sometimes its hard for me to get online.

Regarding leading: my advice is the same as everyone else's; go for it!

I picked up trad recently in new hampshire(cathedral ledge). What a blast!

Just watch out for the rack, it will put a huge dent in your wallet ;) !

I agree with prana's advice about muscle imbalance.

And when you go climbing, ALWAYS stretch before and after, especially if you are interested/practicing some internal aspect of any system.

Other than that, just keep climbing!

[IronFist]

Do you guys ever climb anything non traditional?

Like, um, I guess people usually climb mountains or rocks or whatever, so I guess non traditional would be like houses or buildings or trees or something. I dunno.

I don't know anything about climbing, except someone who can hang by one finger of one hand is pretty strong!

Iron

[prana]

yup, check out "buildering". Like Alain Roberts, famous French climber, and I quote "I am very strong" stating why he knows he wont fall.

[soy]

A few of my friends are supposedly getting into climbing. Sounds like fun. I may try it out.

[herring]

Wasnt that the guy who used to free solo sky scrapers?

Talk about sick
:eek:

[prana]

Ever been to Utah, seen super-tweak ?

Tell me about it, scary. A few of my friends, we met at Thailand, he and his friend both free soloed a classic 7c+ roof on Ton Sai Beach.

Everyone was shaking scared. Another Brit kid placed gear n an unclimbed crack, hung on one hand jam, nearly fell and managed to safe his own life but untangling, jammed a cam and then pulled onto it. This was a FULL roof crack.


The best climber I have ever met was also the most humble, Me Steve McClure, what an honour indeed ! ;)