My friend has a pair of straight swords with alot of rust. He said that if I could fix them, that I could have them. What's the best way to remove the rust? As soon as I can add pictures of the damage I will.
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My friend has a pair of straight swords with alot of rust. He said that if I could fix them, that I could have them. What's the best way to remove the rust? As soon as I can add pictures of the damage I will.
use some sandpaper... start with like 90 or 100 and work your way up to 300(very fine)... i have a metal polishing kit that has from like 1000 up to 12000 or more, but sand paper will take the rust off - it's a good arm workout too!! :)
use steel wool in long and continuous strokes. Don't press hard. Then use some flitz metal polish on them.
( if the blades are chrome plated, just throw them away and save your time, they are crap. :) )
They are Longquan double jian. he left them outside for a long long time, like a dumbarse, and let the elements do with them what they will.
just use rusty swords. It'll be good extra incentive to be careful when practicing.
why do you always have to be my opposition?? :pQuote:
Originally Posted by David Jamieson
Well, how do you feel about aluminum foil? It's supposed to work without scratching the steel, like bronze or copper wool.Quote:
Originally Posted by uki
Also, can you use something like CRL on it? I was going to use vinegar, but I didn't want to do that without consulting someone first.
would it be at all similar to removing rust from a gun?
gun oil and steel mesh is what ive seen done for firearms.
i did come across this. never seen or done it so its just a neat thing i found.
removing rust with electricity
well how long does it take for your firearms? there is ALOT of rust on these things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucas
hmm. well ive never dealth with really heavy rust.
i did remove some rust from a friends straight sword using a steel mesh and some sword oil....very minor rust however and didnt take long to remove. you could still tell that there had been a problem though due to discoloration. ididnt do a pro job, didnt polish or anything, just got the problem out of the way to continue practice.
i have a friend who gave up the battle, he uses a combat steel jian to practice with but its constantly getting wet from sweat and such that he just gave up and uses it rusty lol
I would avoid any of the rust removers that are too caustic. That can deepen the pitting and if its severely rusted, pitting is your enemy. The best way is a good polishing metal cleaner (David is right - flitz is a good product. I usually use wenol) some abrasive like steel wool or sandpaper, and a heck of a lot of elbow grease. Move from course to fine.
I've done some cleaning/polishing with a wheel, but you got to be good at it. Firstly, you don't want to make a mistake and send the blade flying across the room or into your body. Secondly, you can't let the blade heat up or you'll spoil the temper. But if you've never worked one of these, don't try starting with a blade.
How bad is the oxidation and how good is the blade? If it's a crummy blade, it won't be worth the effort. Just wire wheel it clean. But if it's a decent blade, might as well take the time to do it right. Plus it'll improve your grip strength. ;)
I don't know, you tell me. Like I said before, its a longquan double jian, shen family with lion headed guards and pommels. Combat Steel.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneChing
http://forum.kungfumagazine.com/foru...1&d=1257219375
Here are pics of the first blade:
http://forum.kungfumagazine.com/foru...1&d=1257219375
http://forum.kungfumagazine.com/foru...1&d=1257219375
The second one I started derusting, and it has some light pitting on it:
http://forum.kungfumagazine.com/foru...1&d=1257219375
If they are plated, there is probably rust in under the plating. If not, you can use an acid that is used in auto body shops to remove rust from body parts. It just eats off the oxide (rust) and leaves bare metal. I have used it on old blades that were pretty much eaten up with rust. After I removed most of the rust I washed it to remove the acids. Then using a brass brush on a brinder wheel I would brush it off some. The final polishing I did with some really thick sole leather. I cut a round disk of thick bull hide leather and put it on my disk sander. It will rub the rust and follow the contures even down into the pits to remove the rust there too. You have probably lose a lot of steel from the blades, but you can stop it from progressing. Steel can be a lot of work.
So If I scrub most of it away with oil and a brillo pad, what grade of sandpaper should I start with?
Sand paper might remove more steel would it not? I think I would use steel wool if that is what you plan on doing.
LCP