Practical Broadswords ?

[MasterKiller]

Yeah....I have a combat steel broadsword, and after 4 months some kind of connection between the blade and the handle came loose, and now when I move it, I can feel it either rotate in the socket, or wiggle a little back and forth, and I can swivel the bloodcup a centimeter or two. It's just not solid anymore.

The first kwan dao I bought (before getting a heavy duty combat steel one that's like 15 lbs.) came loose, and hte blade could literally shift back and forth an inch or two, so I had to retire it, just in case it came loose and went flying towards someone's car when I practice outside, or hit someone in the school (plus, there's a s-load of mirrors there).

Bought 'em both on MAMart......do you guys have any solid swords that won't get all ****ed up?

When it comes to weapons, remember that you get what you pay for. Quality costs $.

The super sweetest monk spade I ever held was on sale at Taiji Legacy one year. It was $400. They had a matching Kwan Dao also.

[TenTigers]

who made it-do you have a pic or a link?

[Shaolin Wookie]

I couldn't find a pic. I guess I bought a recall weapon...lol. I hope it wasn't WLE's weapons....or I misjudged MAMart on the sword---although for the kwan dao, it's still fair game. I have to admit, I don't know how to judge a good weapon. The only solid ones are the ones our teacher orders. I guess I ought to defer to his excellent judgment. Still, I don't like having the same weapon as everyone else. I had three weapons go missing in my first two years. Then I started painting chinese characters all over my weapons, as well as my name. Less for aesthetics....more because everyone knows my weapons, and they can't take 'em. Plus, I'm a painter, so I can make 'em look pretty good.

BTW: found a pic of my favorite weapon, other than my heavy duty kwan dao:
God, I love that staff. It tells you how strong your transitions are. If you don't do 'em right, perepare for ejection.....or sore wrists. And a blow from it would be wicked......it's solid steel...or iron, or something. About 8-9 lbs.

[Shaolin Wookie]

When it comes to weapons, remember that you get what you pay for. Quality costs $.
.

I know it. You try to deny it, then go for the good bargain, and get screwed.

But as for the question about real battlefield weights and thickness, any guesses? ANything like it on the market?

I'm gonna trust gene, and buy the one he trains with. He's a sword guy, so I'll trust him.

Famous last words.

[banditshaw]

Well I finished learning my broadsword set....next I am buying a sword. I would rather buy one in person as opposed to mail order so I can at least hold it and try it out.
I train at my school using a fairly heavy one and also use the lighter ones as well. I'm trying to get one inbetween....I'll post my find when I finally buy one.

[Buk&Hung Sing]

Where do you live? Find a reputable importer and examine their stock (do your research first).

[KungFu Student]

Has anyone had experience with the Cold Steel Dao? They call it the Willow Leaf Sword, and it looks like a nice piece.

[banditshaw]

Where do you live? Find a reputable importer and examine their stock (do your research first).

I live in LA and I have researched online...that's why I am discussing this on a forum.....problem?

Anyone in LA out there that knows of some good suppliers?

[GeneChing]

A good weapon will fall apart if you do not maintain it properly. A mediocre weapon can often be improved dramatically with a few minor adjustments. Note that historically, this was often the case. It's not uncommon to find historic weapons that were an amalgamation of different parts - guard from here, blade from there. It stands to reason if you think about it long enough.

If you notice in the fine print on our ads, it says 'do not overtighten'. This is because the majority of Chinese weapon fittings are built by covering a wood core with a brass alloy skin. This has been the situation with almost all Chinese weapons for years. It's a cheap quick way to fit a weapon because wood is soft and will yield to the metal when the pommel nut is tightened down. It can be easy to fix if the problem isn't too severe. Often, you can just throw a washer or two in there and you're good to go. Sometimes it's impossible to fix easily because the structural integrity of the wood core is completely compromised or the tang has lost its threading. For a tang, you'd need to re-thread it at a thinner diameter and change out the pommel nut. This can only be done once or twice before there isn't enough to thread left. If the wood core is compromised, you need to get a new fitting.

As for authentic weights and thicknesses, that depends. Actual combat weapons tend to be light and well balanced, however the Chinese have this unique tradition of training with weapons that are very heavy. This is to build muscle, etc., sort of like adding ankle weights when you kick and such. So there are many historic examples that are grossly overweight. The battlefield stuff usually tends to be lighter. Another factor is the time period. Older weapons are heavier because the metallurgy wasn't as advanced so the steel had to be thicker. Newer weapons (such as 19th century weapons) tend to be lighter. A classic example of this is western swords, which start out as this thick bronze monsters, and slowly over centuries, trim down to elegant skinny blades. With a blade, it's better to be quick and accurate than thick and heavy. If you overpower your cut or thrust, it's easy to evade, leaving you exposed. And it takes very little energy to cut some one, if your sword is sharp. So there's quite a range of weights and thicknesses when you say 'battlefield'. Personally, I judge a sword on its overall lethality, not its size.

[banditshaw]

Great info there, thanks Gene.

I really am interested in buying one of the Han Wei forge swords you had mentioned earlier in the thread. I just want to actually hold one and feel it's weight before purchasing. If anyone knows of any suppliers of those swords in the LA area let me know . I'll try them out and even order thru MartialArtsMart to show my support of the forum.

Peace.

[GeneChing]

I've seen Hanweis at the tobacconists in our local strip mall. I saw a dadao there and went to inquire - they wanted twice SRP for it! And here I was hoping they were selling it super cheap or something.

Anyway, good luck finding a distributor. I hear what you're saying about wanting to feel one ahead of time, but that's a tall order.

[banditshaw]

Thanks for the reply Gene.
There are a few stores that are in the area ..I'll see what they have...otherwise I'm going to just take a chance on the single broadsword combat steel model you recommended earlier. Part of me wants the sharpened one ...but perhaps I'll wait awhile before stepping up to that.

[banditshaw]

Ok here is the sword I ordered from martialartsmart.com
Hopefully will be getting it next week.

http://www.martialartsmart.com/45-2063.html

I went for the sharpened and bought some oil as well. Watcha guys think?

[Asmo]

Hey Banditshaw.

I have that one, its a great sword Its heavier then most of the sabers usually used by practicioners. You need good technique with this one. I applied a layer of laquer (sp?) to prevent it from rusting, and keeping oil away from my clothing.

And although its sharp, you can always blunt it with a metal file (hope thats right again). The point will always be sharp though, hehe. Although saberflowers are often not part of southern saber forms I have fun practicing them as they also are a great way to train the wrist. A sharp point here can be tricky as they get close to your legs.

Have fun with that saber

[banditshaw]

Asmo- Good looking out on the tip about the laquer. Yeah I'm stoked to be finally getting this.