I used to know of a good traditional TKD place, but last time I saw them the quality seemed to have taken a major hit(sold out I guess). My dad's school used to spar full contact, no pads, regularly and *gasp* were taught to keep their hands up! They also were strongly discouraged from participating in sport, though my dad did win fairly easily the one time he tried it.
TKD itself is ok, but it seems quality TKD schools are increasingly hard to find. Part of the problem is probably the limitations of their sparring format. It's like if the rules for competitive jujitsu fights were limited to only two or three holds...