For the previous installment of Shaolin Trips, see Shaolin Trips: The Shaolin Zen Music Ritual

As I write this, nearly two months have already passed since I was at Shaolin Temple. I apologize for over a month break between this run of Shaolin Trips chapters, but I’ve been busy.

Since China, I’ve been chasing another endless California summer, going from the pop culture fan gatherings of Year of the Dragon. I was born a Dragon, and in Chinese astrology, the year of your birth is ‘Ben Ming Nian (本命年)’ colloquially translated as ‘the twelve-year curse.’ During your Ben Ming Nian, you are likely to be confronted by obstacles and have poor luck. My 2024 obstacles have been an overpacked schedule.

Nevertheless, throughout it all, my last trip to Shaolin remains in my heart and haunts my soul. Such is the Shaolin experience.

True Shaolin always tests you. If Shaolin ever becomes easy or comfortable, you’ve lost the way.

I have not forsaken Shaolin. It’s been a test to keep everything straight in my mind, but my Shaolin Trip continues…

Back to Dengfeng, Back to Shaolin Temple

Breakfast at the Zhongzhou Intermega Hotel in Dengfeng was at 6:30. It was another bounteous buffet spread, and I tasted everything I could, then went back for seconds of the dishes I liked. Once more, I ate more than I should have, but it was going to be a long day and I had no idea when my next meal might be. The hardest test was not to talk with my mouth full, as a parade of Shaolin friends, both old and new, were there and many welcome greetings were exchanged. It was so wonderful to reconnect with the Shaolin sangha from all over the world.

The early breakfast was motivated by this day’s journey – the official beginning of the First World Shaolin Kung Fu Games. We had to all meet in the lobby by 7 to catch the bus to Shaolin Temple. That wasn’t an issue for me because my circadian rhythms were already completely askew. The long trek to China on top of the whirlwind visit to my master’s school in Luohe left me completely spun about what time zone I was in.

The bus ride was pleasant, air-conditioned, and smooth, but I could hardly recognize the place. Everything looked different. Dengfeng has grown so much. I had explored those streets extensively some twenty years ago. Now I could barely triangulate where I was.

Shaolin Temple had changed too. Back when I trained there, it was surrounded by a dense rural village, full of schools, students, and tourist traps. That was all gone, replaced by bamboo groves and trees. The Chinese are masters of reforestation, and the ‘small forest’ was lushly green, mature, and deeply rooted, despite being relatively young. Once again, Shaolin Temple was surrounded by nature, serene and ‘tranquillo.’ 

A large platform stage was set right in front of Shaolin’s front gate, Shan Men Square (Mountain Gate wide space 山门广场). The stage was cordoned off, but the temple was open to the public as always, making it extremely crowded. According to the official Shaolin report, the World Shaolin Kung Fu Games were the culmination of six continental games that encompassed 101 countries, 168 cities, and more than 2,400 competitors. From those Continental games, only 124 practitioners from 47 countries qualified for the World Games.

Every continent fielded a dozen to two dozen competitors, but each team had a large entourage. The North American team was eighty members strong. This included 24 Shaolin Kung Fu Games finalists, 13 Overseas Shaolin Kung Fu competitors (Canada: 4; Mexico: 1; USA: 8), 10 officials and coaches (Sylvia Lew, Philip Sahagun, Shi Yanchan, Shi Yandi, Shi Yanxu, Shi Yanyi, Sun Yuchao, Zhenlong Yu), 33 parents and accompanying individuals, and from KungFuMagazine.com, Gigi Oh and me (technically speaking, Gigi is an official too – she’s the Secretary General of the Shaolin North American Association – but she’s the Publisher Emeritus of Kung Fu Tai Chi first and foremost).

Tiger Claw produced T-shirts and embroidered jackets for the North American team, emblazoned with one of Shaolin’s most enduring symbols – The Primordial Unity of the Three Religions and the Nine Schools. This symbol was used by other international teams too and was prominent in the official Shaolin missives. It encapsulates the inclusive philosophy of the World Games and Shaolin Temple today.

The Primordial Unity of the Three Religions and the Nine Schools comes from image set in stone on one of Shaolin’s precious steles, dated 1565 CE. Meir Shahar, in his landmark book The Shaolin Monastery: History, Religion, and the Chinese Martial Arts describes the meaning of this venerated image best:

“That Ming Shaolin monks cherished the syncretic inclusiveness of their age is visually attested. Among the monastery’s art treasures is a sixteenth-century stele titled “The Primordial Unity of the Three Religions and the Nine Schools [of pre-Qin thought],” which renders the contemporary religious trend by a fusion of headdresses. It features an adept who wears both a Confucian cap and a Daoist kerchief at the same time as he displays the Buddhist tonsure.” (Shahar, p175). This 459-year-old symbol remains meaningful today as Shaolin reaches around the globe to share its precious dharma.

The Group Photo

The first Shaolin test was the group photo. Upon arrival, the entire entourage of foreign guests were escorted to the rear of the temple complex, behind Dache Tang (Great Penetrating Hall 大彻堂 - Dache Tang was also the location of the Shaolin Kung Fu Intangible Heritage Transmission Innovation Conference, but that will be discussed in Chapter 5 of this Shaolin Trips pentalogy.)

A large array of bleachers was set up for the hundreds of attendees. The goal was to get a panoramic group photo using a special camera designed for such tasks. The term ‘bleachers’ is an American slang that can be traced back to at least 1889. It derives from the fact that these were usually uncovered wooden boards that were ‘bleached’ by the sun. And it was sunny. Shaolin in July is hot. My weather app registered it was in the low 90s with 80%+ humidity. Everyone was packed tightly on to these bleachers, standing directly under the burning sun.

I decided not to join the photo. I hung back with the paparazzi, under shady overhanging roof across from the crowd. Gigi was front and center, seated as a guest of honor. It is our unspoken strategy to take opposite perspectives on every event. Throughout the proceedings, Gigi was treated as a VIP, usually the only woman in the coveted front rows seats, close to the Abbot. I would lurk about on whatever opposite side I could find, tucking in to take photos. Sometimes it worked well for me, like in this case where was sheltered from the sun. Other times, I was lost in that paparazzi scrum. That can be rough too. There’s always a lot of civilians in the way taking crappy cell phone videos with no concept of personal space. With China’s massive population, crowd etiquette is very different; it's far more draconian.

It took an inordinately long time get everyone lined up and set up that special camera. I felt for those participants who donned their long robes. It was crowded and sweltering. I could see the sweat pouring into everyone’s new team shirts.

However, the Shaolin sangha was undaunted. Spirits were high, brimming with enthusiasm and qi. The African participants led the charge with cheerful chants and native songs. Not to be outdone, other continents chimed in with nationalistic shouts and it became a spontaneous rousing and friendly exchange as Shaolin representatives from all over the world joined together to celebrate their mutual shared joy. Here we all were – making Shaolin history – the FIRST World Shaolin Kung Fu Games ever.

Ultimately, everyone agreed on one unified chant. “Wo ai Shaolin! (I love Shaolin 我愛少林).”

Shaolin Temple 2024

After the photo op was the Opening Ceremony. This was a televised event (to an audience of 8 million, I’m told) with all the grand pageantry of a Chinese variety show. There were welcoming speeches from assorted dignitaries, an address from the Abbot, Shi Yongxin, a handsome male host coupled with a gorgeous female cohost, large video screens bookending the stage, and of course, Shaolin Kung Fu demonstrations. At one point, the judges were all lined up to take public vows to be fair and honest. Perhaps that’s something we should implement at the next Tiger Claw Elite Championships.

I had a decent vantage point from stage left until this huge cop stood right in front of me. He must have been nearly 7’ tall. It was annoying but what was I going to say to that? The show seemed almost haphazard, without formal staging or blocking, but somehow it flowed well. The entire production defied many event management principles that I know from working in the music industry for nearly 40 years now, and yet it still worked. The ceremonies went for an hour, and then all the games participants were free to explore the temple.

Gigi and I knew the temple grounds well. Gigi was last there in 2015 as a side trip to the Chen Taijiquan Summit Forum, and before that, we went together for my last trip in 2004. My seven previous trips were documented in my book Shaolin Trips. Every time we went back, Shaolin Temple showed change and growth. It’s all about impermanence. It had been a while for both of us and this time, there were so many improvements, like an assortment of beautiful new statues and several newly restored side halls. What’s more, there was so much beatification in the details. Traditional Chinese temples can have intricate adornments, especially on the roof eaves. All these were elaborately and exquisitely improved.

Strangely and somewhat auspiciously, we were attracted to a hidden courtyard that was full of art objects – statues, vases, even some huge stone locks (a traditional Kung Fu kettlebell). Gigi got a pic of me lifting the biggest one I could find, and it was freaking heavy – nearly 100 pounds of solid carved rock. She delighted in taking her time taking that photo as I struggled to keep it up. Then a monk came to chase us out. It turned out we were in the abbot’s private courtyard, which is off limits to ‘tourists.’ Perhaps this was another Shaolin test. But then that guarding monk recognized us and welcomed us. We all had a good laugh and went on to explore more.

One addition that I had been eager to see was the Shaolin Yaoju (Medicine office 少林药局). This now occupies the front of the temple complex, to the left of the front gate. It’s a series of halls that includes a diagnostic area, a spacious apothecary and vendors offering several over-the-counter Shaolin remedies. Gigi was particularly impressed by a medicinal herb tea that was packaged like instant noodle cups. Offered in a case, a full regimen of health tea treatments was so convenient, but it was a large package, and we were already getting loaded down with a lot of Shaolin schwag. Included in my participant package were three Shaolin medicinal patches: Yao tong tie (waist pain patch 腰痛贴), Jing tong tie (neck pain patch 颈痛贴) and Xi tong tie (knee pain patch 膝痛贴). It was as if Shaolin Temple knew that the competitors would get sore and need some curatives.

The other addition that surprised me was the addition of a Shaolin boba stand. That’s also near the front of the temple, but to the right. Shaolin boba! I had to try some. Being from Taiwan, Gigi was way ahead of the rest of us when the boba invasion first spread to the US. Regular boba runs at Tiger Claw began as soon as the first boba shops opened nearby. In addition, my daughter was a bobarista for a while, and spoiled my boba palette (but nothing would compare to the boba I had at Taiwan Taoyuan Airport on the way home – that totally wrecked me for what good boba can be – but I’m getting ahead of my story). Shaolin boba was an unexpecting novelty. It wasn’t anywhere near the best boba I’ve had, but it was very refreshing under that sweltering Shaolin sun, and the caffeine bump was much needed with my messed-up jet lag.

Gigi and I had lunch at Shaolin’s vegetarian restaurant. I remember when that was first added but never tried it. It was quite good. We had a delicious meal of lotus roots, tofu noodles, a savory soup with some tasty protein chunks (gluten maybe), a fresh sprouts dish, and some kind of weird root stem that Gigi recognized but I did not. Once again, I was eating too much, but China is such an adventure in cuisine.

Throughout our visit, we kept running into old friends. We bumped into Shi Xinghao outside Talin, who just happened to be travelling in China at the time with his family. At several of the lectures, I wound up seated next to Shi Yanchan, who I knew as Xingying back in the 90s, before he re-discipled under the abbot. And we spent a lot of time with Philip Sahagun, who probably knows Shaolin Temple better than any westerner today.

Most notably, Abbot Shi Yongxin called us into the Abbot’s chamber for a private interview. Philip joined us and that exclusive interview will be the next installment of this Shaolin Trips pentalogy. Stay tuned…

The World Shaolin Kung Fu Games

The elimination rounds were held inside Shaolin Temple in the Training Room (lian gong fang 练功房) which was at the rear of the Shaolin complex, on the opposite side from Dache Tang. There were magnificent Buddhist statues adorning the room, and large electronic display screens naming the competitors on the floor. The tournament floors were spacious, but it was a little tight for the spectators. However, everyone was courteous and made room for each other. Despite being competitive, everyone seemed to be good sports, and aware of what a special event this was.

Much to my delight, there was a cordoned off area for press and VIPs. Even more to my delight, my old Shaolin friend, Master Ramesh Patel was seated there, avidly watching the competition. He has a great eye for Shaolin Kung Fu and got me quickly up to speed on how the eliminations were progressing. We sat like sports commentators, eyes glued to the rings, reveling in the powerful displays of Kung Fu. All the competitors had already gone through a rigorous process to qualify, so the level of competition was high. And everyone present was every conversant with Shaolin Kung Fu, all the judges, competitors, even the audience.

There was a Welcoming Banquet back at the hotel that evening. It was another extraordinary buffet, but there were no tables or chairs. The abbot attended and gave a short speech, along with some other dignitaries, then we were left to eat. The concept behind having no tables or chairs was that it would stimulate mingling. But after a long day at Shaolin Temple, it was another brutal Shaolin test. Perhaps we should’ve demonstrated our resolve by doing it in horse stance. I secretly hoped that a food fight would break out – not out of any animosity – it’s just that I’ve never been in a full out food fight and a Shaolin food fight would’ve been something else.

Oddly, somehow, the concept worked. Despite being tired, we did mingle. Everyone enjoyed sharing their experiences of the day. And for the most part, people were satisfied with the results. Those competitors that were eliminated were naturally disappointed but also seemed relieved. Those still in the game were steeling themselves for the final. I ate a lot again.

The finals were held the following day on the main stage at Shan Men Square in another televised event. In the interest of efficiency, two finalists competed on the floor simultaneously. It’s a method I’ve seen before, usually reserved for internal style competitions like Tai Chi. For Shaolin Kung Fu practitioners, it was a bit hazardous, adding an element of danger to the forms competition. One competitor was nearly decapitated when another was wildly wielding a guandao. A dividing line would have been useful there.

There were so many awesome Shaolin Kung Fu demonstrations. However, if the internet is any barometer, Shaolin Kung Fu Star Zhang Sixuan stole the show with her awe-inspiring demonstration of Tongzigong. Videos of her demo were the most visible on the web, shared over and over again. I was pleased that my reverse vantage offered a different perspective on her performance (see Meet Zhang Sixuan (张思璇) on my IG).

Shaolin aspires to make the World Games into a biannual event, although at this writing there is no date set for it in 2026, nor are any Continental Games scheduled. However, here in the USA, two National Games are on the horizon.

The next National Shaolin Games will be at the 13th Denver National Chinese Martial Arts Championship on September 21, 2024, in Denver, Colorado. Master John Burns is the host and graciously invited Gigi and I to attend, however unfortunately it came up too quickly for us and we both are committed elsewhere. For more information, visit 13th Denver National Chinese Martial Arts Championship and 2024 Shaolin Kung Fu Games.

After that, another Shaolin Games will be held at the USA Shaolin Open & Traditional Kung Fu Team Trials in Houston, Texas. This includes a seminar from my master, Shi Decheng, who will be visiting the US at that time (see Traditional Shaolin Kung Fu Seminar with Shi De Cheng). The Shaolin Games portion are being overseen by Shi Yanchan, who has also graciously invited us to attend. Happily, I am free then and have cordially accepted. I look forward to seeing the Shaolin sangha again there. For more information, visit USA Shaolin Open & Traditional Kung Fu Team Trials.

What happens in the next chapter? Stay tuned for Shaolin Trips: Interview with Abbot Shi Yongxin at the World Shaolin Kung Fu Games.