For The Silk Road Kung Fu Friendship Tour Part 42, click here.

Exclusive interview with and demonstrations by Kru Max, a very talented coach of a little-known ancient martial art that is primarily weapons-based from Thailand’s Lanna Kingdom

An undisputable gem of a martial art from ancient Lanna Empire emerges in the circle of Thai traditional martial arts and shines like a star.

Part 40 of this series included an interview with the extraordinary Kru (Coach/Master) Cho, a young master of Chaya Krabi Krabong, one of if not the most famous ancient Thai weapons arts from the south. And in the north? What? A blank.Internet searches did not help.

I asked around, nothing.

The Science of Improbability

And then on Friday May 19, 2023, one of those “bazillion-to-one-odds-things”happened when I, on the rarest of occasions, went grocery shopping on the other side of town after dark. Very near my destination I almost whizzed by Decathlon’s really very nice free outdoor gym (on my bicycle) but thought: “It’s night! It’s cool! Now! Go now! Have some fun!”

Ha, ha, ha. There are times when temptations should be listened to, and this was one of them. After playing with weights for 20 minutes or so, and stretching for maybe 10 minutes, I played with the heavy bags for a while. Taking little breaks between my little “rounds” I watched a talented boxing coach from Canada, who I later learned is named Sergei, doing boxing sparring with younger guys and “teaching them the ropes; the tools and tactics of the ‘sweet science.’” And he was nice about it too, never tagging them too hard or anything like that, explaining their mistakes. A great coach.

After a few rounds a maybe 30-year-oldThai man volunteered to “take the ring.” It appeared they knew each other at least a little. Coach Sergei started out well, but the Thai man was very good at slipping, weaving, bobbing, and blocking with counterpunches. Mmm. After a minute or so of that, the Thai man started being a bit more aggressive and Coach Sergie had to do a bit of slipping, weaving, bobbing, and blocking with counterpunching when he could. They were both very well controlled, so nobody was hurt in the slightest. But, after about two minutes of that, Sergei stood up straight, and called out: “Great!” Or something like that, and then, “Let’s take a break!”

The younger Thai guy stayed in the ring, and I was all warmed up anyways from the warm night, bicycle ride, weights, stretches, bags, and hey, I’m ready!

The only thing is, I don’t like gloves, and quickly learned kicks and such, were OK with him!

A-O-K! (I thought that would probably be the case, wink, wink.)

I hadn’t done any sparring in about six weeks since I fought an entire army of 7 to 10-year-old children after the end of a Taekwondo class I taught, one of my other favorite hobbies.

So, this was a little different, one much bigger person, talented, quite strong looking really, and fortunately with superb control. No problem.

Within a few seconds it was obvious to me hewas highly trained in several martial arts and much more than a boxer. There were at least 10 or so teenagers and a few other people watching,some of whom were taking photos and videos. I recall for about 10 seconds he and I had something going not too different from very fast pushing hands with an occasional light slap/hit punctuating the rhythm. Wing Chun Kung Fu style? Probably not but fun anyways.

I vaguely recall sneaking a very close-up sidekick in there tickling his ribs… however it was difficult to hit him without getting hit back at the same time, ha, ha, hence the need for endless combinations, which are tiring.

He appears to specialize in mostly close-up fighting, and besides kicks, punches, elbows and blocks, and leg sweeps and throws, a week or so later I learned he also knows all kinds of arm, and wrist locks as well, with some not so different from Aikido. However,under pressure,in general his style appeared of Nan Chuan lineage mixed with segments of a very wide range of other styles. What did that add up to?

After two minutes, it was me who said: “Great! Let’s take a break!”

We chatted for a few minutes in the ring, and I found his style is “Muay Jeung,” a style I didn’t recall hearing about before. His English isn’t great but a lot better than my Thai.

I couldn’t understand parts of what he said, but what parts I did understand were intriguing. I clearly caught the words “north Thailand” and “Lanna,” and when I asked “weapons?” he clearly said “Chai Khrab,” the polite “Yes” in Thai.

Standing there in in the middle of that ring before round 2, I practically fell over hearing that. “Wow!” Yes, that’s what I said.

Author Nicolas Eynaud; Modern names added by this author.

That suggested to me I had finally found a lead to the mysterious traditional martial arts of the North, at least on the westerly side closer to Myanmar, the Lanna Empire no less, in its capital city, Chiang Mai. I had searched bing.com, google, and several other browsers finding nothing about a traditional northwest Thailand weapons art. I knew theywere here,(with absolute certainty) because traditional styles rooted to the language and culture are ubiquitous, and reasoned they were keeping a very low profile as most do.

That would not be surprising in the least for a traditional martial art. Traditional arts have always been secret by the laws of the masters of those arts until the past 50 years or so, and many, most or all keep hidden some of the curriculum until higher levels of mastery in those arts are attained.

I had even emailed www.KungFuMagazine.com Publisher Gene Ching asking about Krabi Krabong or other traditional weapons masters here in Thailand. He said he’d come close once in Thailand, but the interview didn’t happen. Was it possible…?

We sparred another round, also interesting, and after about a whole minute and a half, I joyfully announced: “Ah YES! Bravo, bravo,” and started clapping for the champion of the evening, Kru Mac holding his arm high, easy when not wearing gloves and trying to hit him. The small audience joined in enthusiastically.

In fact, I still had very, very serious business to attend to after that stop, yes, involving that most primordial need of all: food.

However, one can bet I got to know both expert and seasoned boxing Coach Sergei, and the Thai gentleman martial artist I learned is called Kru Mac at least a little and got contact information before launching off into the night.

Only a week later our schedules synced for an interview where I learned Muay Jeung is indeed, northwest Thailand’s, Lannakingdom/empire’s traditional ancient weapons and unarmed fighting art.

I’d never heard of it, but… knew 1. There had to be such an art, 2. This man is highly skilled either in one very broad-based martial art or several, 3. possesses extraordinary control especially given he is very fast and appears quite strong, and 4. he sure seems like a nice clean guy.

Good enough for me!

On the appointed day he came outside the café for a moment to introduce himself and guide me to his table. A friend was with him. I was soon to learn he was a history university lecturer and splendid translator named “Min,” who really made this most excellent interview possible.

When I walked in the very nice café, I first considered the significance of this meeting: This interview has remarkable potential.

I saw Min seated at the table, and a curious sword rack with an unusual aura, no doubt.

After introductions I got straight to business.

“Can you tell me some differences between Muay Jeung, and Muay Thai?

The answer was straightforward: “For Muay Thai you need a stronger body. The stance is very strong and great power generated. The Muay Jeung stance is looser, but the power is the same. Muay Jeung is not taught to the general public because it is a killing art.”

“So it’s also a weapons art?”

“Yes,” confirming what I’d heard the week before from Kru Mac.

Rope Fighting and Muay Thai Coaching

I also found Kru Mac had competed in some 10 pro “rope fights,” or what’s commonly called Kard Chuek (คาดเชือก) and he said won six or seven of them.

In addition, he’s also been teaching and coaching Muay Thai for 10 years, with his fighters competing mostly in Thaphae Stadium. I remembered one fighter at that stadium using what Japanese call Atemiwaza (当て身技) striking vital points, a technique obviously shared by Muay Jeung but not so often seen in Muay Thai.

Coach Mac showed me a simple method for finding the five primary centerline vital areas, each spaced a “tip of thumb to tip of outstretched little finger” width below the other starting on the top of the head. That is a useful mnemonic and interesting relationship.

I asked Kru Mac if his style was aggressive or more a counter-fighting art, and he said “50/50.”

I also found outthe name “Siam”(one of the older names of and still synonymous with Thailand) has the same linguistic root as “Shan” but over time cultural and language differences appeared. Siam – Da’i/Thai referred historically moreto the central and south regions of Thailand. 'Shan' is a generic term for all Tai-speaking peoples within Myanmar. The Shan State capital is Taunggyi, the fifth-largest city in Myanmar with about 400,000 people. Naturally due to proximity if nothing else, trade between Chiang Mai and Myanmar is booming I have heard. 

The Pagan (sometimes called “Bagan”) Kingdom (849-1287) is considered to be the first Burmese empire and Min appeared to suggest the roots of Muay Jeung may extend from there as well, “about a thousand years ago,” which fits the above dates.

I mentioned interviewing Chaya Krabi Krabong Kru Cho, who said their students started training with weapons first, and only last started learned unarmed fighting. So, I asked Kru Mac: “Does Muay Jeung follow that same order of training?”

He said, “No, students are first trainedin unarmed fighting, and later add weapons.”

That’s interesting. Perhaps Muay Jeung is the older art.It is intuitively true in ancient wars they used weapons, but wars probably didn’t start until the agrarian age (5000 – 12,000 years ago depending on where your ancestors were), and the Stone Age started 2.6 million years ago, ending about 3,300 BCE with the Bronze Age. So, could Muay Jeung date before stone age weapons became popular (prior to 3,300 BCE and presumably after 5000 – 12000 years ago)? In one sense, a person could argue all fighting is innate, and many or most children wrestle without any encouragement or training at all. Parallel to that kind of reasoning, sure, Muay Jeung would most probably have inherited military training from the very beginning of human civilization.

Fighting without weapons, within or between tribes was likely the norm before weapons became popular, with 1. clubs and rocks, and only later 2. stone axes being some of the first probably, competing with bow and arrows (64,000 years ago in the Natal, now called South Africa). From South Africa to the Trans-Saharan trade routes, the Middle East, Central Asia west to Turkey, Greece, and Rome, and east to China, even thousands of years ago were not so far when goods are bought and sold at waystations, which they always were until the modern era. That was the norm, however occasionally some would go the whole distance.

I asked about the weapons they used, again using Chaya Krabi Krabong as the example mentioning they use weapons somewhat like the Shaolin 18, plus some others.

Weapons

He told me Muay Jeung uses eight primary weapons. More than a little curious I asked if a halberd was among them, (perhaps curious if Guan Yu is remembered here). They weren’t familiar with the English name, so I sketched out a slightly weird version of a halberd. He said “Yes,” and told me the name was Ngao (with an up tone). (In fact, I’ve seen quite a number of Guan Yu statues here in shops and even favorite local hangouts.)

And then he ever-so-kindly sketched out the other seven weapons. This transpired on a page of my notes, so with a bit of those notes mixed in, the otherwise good illustrations are found below.

I found something probably relating to the Trident here.

From those notes the reader can figure outsome of their weapons at least, however the Short Ngao for example is very unique, as probably is the Lotus sword, with the others tailored to fit the individuals when possible – although there are times nothing but the nearest pitchfork is available. People who work with them regularly probably acquire special skills and muscles which combined with training in an evolved martial art makes for a formidable weapon indeed.

I asked about his early introduction to Muay Jeung and learned he first started watching Muay Jeungat age nine or so; specifically older people in his village in Mae Taeng District of Chiang Mai practicing in the early mornings and evenings. Kru Jeung started formal training in Muay Jung at age 13.

I also learned his master was the Village Head.

Kru Mac’s father did not train in Muay Jeung, but his grandfather taught it. I also found out he first saw Bruce Lee films when he was a teenager.

At around this time Min had to take off for another engagement, and a very nice lady named “Vida” came just about the same time. Her English is also splendid, and I found out she’s involved in biochemical research. Wow. It did not take a rocket scientist to figure out there might be some chemistry between those two, given I found out Kru Mac is 31 and single.

Then, I got a rare treat, the use of a trapping hand exercise I’ve seen before but never in combinations and series like this, He started by standing and demonstrating, making the “infinity sign” with one hand repeatedly. I videoed that for 13 seconds and only later viewing that short video noticed he was doing figure 8s clockwise and counterclockwise, horizontally, and vertically with one hand. To the untrained eye someone might think this to be a useless joke. Ridiculous. I know better. That grabbing-pulling or turning “trapping hand” exercise is incredibly powerful if someone pulls the attacker’s limb while counter-hitting, because the forces are multiplicative and thus potentially very dangerous, precisely the reason it is incorporated into traditional martial arts and one reason grabbing not permitted in so many fighting arts.

And then he did it with two hands alternatively, and I could see he was turning and using them in different ways. I could discern an inner geometry, and it fit a pattern I vaguely recognized but nothing in any form like that. Naturally I had to ask about that!

By way of explanation, he drew a little chart. Note the eight cardinal directions, movement, pairs of opposites and alignment with the poles. That little diagram contains a great deal of information.

That reminded me of a mandala I’d seen from Shotokan Karate (at the center of the next image below), although the true origin may be unknown. Please remember at least a couple of styles of Japanese Karate, written in Japanese, like for example Shorin-Ryu, are pronounced as spelled there, but the characters are also Chinese and say “Shaolin.” The above mandala and the center mandala below, are also reminiscent of Indian and Arabic art I have seen in many places along the Silk Roads.

However, its use as an instructional tool for Kru Mac’s two-handed360⁰ trapping hands series of techniques appears to me, totally unique in concept and design. Imagine being able to stop any attack from hand or foot at least using a paired series of trapping hands exercises – an idea not impossible at all - given grabbing and pulling an attacking limb is just about always a useful kind of thing to do if followed up correctly with an immobilization or other controlled end to the fight. Pulling the opponent into your own attack is always an option, however extreme care must be taken to not injure the opponent.

Just looking at this larger mandala reminds me I saw Coach Mac use a crescent kick at least two or three times. That kick isn’t often used in Taekwondo or Karate but is in Wushu Kung Fu. His style is multifaceted. Interestingly, the Muay Thai “swing kick” is sometimes more like a crescent kick (coming from the outside, obviously) than a turning kick because the corresponding hip does not turn over much at all usually.

Things I didn’t see:

Capoeira style

Hip or shoulder throws like in Judo, (but his leg sweeps, hooks and kicks, were top of the line; he seems to have learned them all, and more),

Deep, low wide stances more commonly used further south in Silat.

Outside

First, he demonstrated what Karate and Taekwondo people usually call two- and three-step self-defense routines. His were super-fast, clean, and unstoppable, at least to someone not familiar with them.

Most were “finishers,” that is ended with the attacker being significantly hurt, (or worse) if the demonstrator does not use control. Thus, a martial art.And I’m sure I got what limited view an outsider might. No doubt they have other probably more direct, “stoppers.”

He demonstrated several answers to anything one is likely to throw at him and his knowledge of sweeps, trips, takedowns, and throws, extensive.

One thing he did that caught my attention was his arm and hand motion in the following photo:

If he fought a lot of Taekwondo people, he might think I’d follow that immediately with a jumping right turning kick and clobber him on the left side of his head. Or, if I was a boxer, I’d follow with a powerful right straight punch, cross or hook, again on his face. So, his left arm and hand was and is a nice solid kind of defense… protecting his face and head from my kick or follow-up.

That skipped through my mind in an instant when I saw it, and stopped, and asked him about it. He had a routine for it, not surprisingly.First, he demonstrated it alternating right and left, and then mixed it with other defense or offensive techniques.

One beauty of that defense is this: If the attacker is really powerful, and the defender cannot escape (like is in a corner), that defense can distribute the shock of impact between the arm, head, and neck rather than simply breaking an arm or neck. His use of it right and left, and then with offensive techniques demonstrates its versatility. Combined with slipping weaving bobbing, intercepting (centerline) fist, and so on, it’s a really useful defense.

He appears to have encyclopedic knowledge of every move he executed during his demonstrations as I questioned several things.

He also said he is not a master of Muay Jeung, yet.

Conclusions

I would have been disappointed if I’d spent a year and a half in north Thailand and not discovered the most ancient indigenous weapons arts of this region. Here in the Northwest of Thailand’s Chiang Mai, I found first the traditional weapons arts from the south (Chaya Krabi Krabong), but not in Isan (in the northeast, influenced by Laotian history, language, and culture), or Chiang Mai’s Lanna Kingdom (more influenced by ancient Myanmar to the west). I knew it is here, but reasoned they were simply not advertising.

And then Friday evening May 19th, only a couple of weeks before my planned departure to the next destination, a lot of very strong clues suggested I might have a lead on at least one of those mysterious arts.

Eight days later we met again, this time at a cafe, had a fascinating interview and conversation, and I got to photograph and video some of his wide repertoire of techniques.

His friend Min, a historian and our friendly translator was very helpful filling in some of the related language, culture, and history relationships and changes over time and Vida with her excellent articulate English and understanding of complex systems were invaluable in preparing this interview.

This is far from the whole story of traditional martial arts in Thailand but rather focusing on just one region.

Epilogue

A few quotes from Song Jiang, a fascinating anti-hero or super-hero from the classic Water Marginhistorical novel follow:

不打不成相识。You don't know a man until you've fought him.

表壮不如里壮。 Inner force counts more than outward strength.

闻名不如见面，见面胜似闻名。Meeting a man of fame is better than just hearing his name.

人无刚骨，安身不牢。There's safety only in a stiff backbone.

有缘千里来相会，无缘对面不相逢。 If fated, men come together though a thousand li apart. If not, they miss each other though they meet face to face.

四海之内，皆兄弟也。 Within the bounds of the four seas, all men are brothers.

Thai Panji Stories and the hero “Inao”

Talking with Kru Mac, he mentioned mythology and legends with a character named “Inao.” He said these stories were popular around Southeast Asia, a deep part of the culture and something called “Thai Panji stories.”

It didn’t take much digging to find the character to whom he was referring.

Strapped to his waist the invincible kris.
He proceeds,
Elegant as a lion-king (ratchakraison).
(INRII 142)

I found a summary of Inao’s love story and present it here.

The Pursuit of Java: Thai Panji Stories, Melayu Lingua Franca and the Question of Translation

Inao’s love affair with the princess of Manya, the betrothal is broken off by the prince. Later, the prince realizes that his former betrothed is actually the most beautiful, but the lovers cannot manage to find a happy solution because of the intervention of the deity. The couple must go on a long adventure, conquering several Javanese kingdoms and losing their way before finding each other again. Eventually, the lovers come to Kalang and finally manage to get married. The story ends with happiness in the Javanese world.

The above free download summarizes the major chapters in his story and compares different versions. It’s very entertaining.

Reading further on in the text one finds: “The Manya romance episode, then, ends with Inao enjoying great pleasure among his three beautiful new wives.” Never mind, the king fell insanely in love with his (Inao’s) betrothed just from seeing a drawing, and there are wars and duels fought over love of a woman in which Inao emerges victorious. Too much of a spoiler? The real stories are much better.

The adventures of Inao are in the form of literature and dance originally from Java, now Indonesia, however each of the language and culture groups in Southeast Asia evolved their own versions of that diverse traditional local outdoor theater and then TV, music, and dance genres over the past 700 years or so.

Despite almost six months in Chiang Mai, I know I haven’t scratched the surface. For example, there are “the Karen, Long-neck Karen, Hmong, and Palong tribal people, many or most of whom have highly refined hunting and possibly fighting skills as well. For hunting, bow and arrow, and spears are still used by some,though most use rifles these days I was told. One rarely sees such individuals in Chiang Mai, but sometimes.Tribal people are often distinct due to tattoos, more tanned skin, sometimes elongated ear lobes with a sizable hole in each, etc. The few I’ve seen appeared very strong and healthy. Their martial arts are likely to be formidable as well in addition to their knowledge of herbal medicines, the legends and dances of their families and tribes (by language groups usually), edible things in the wild, surviving all kinds of predators’ attacks, etc.

And, remember, the secrets of their martial arts are sometimes, or usually hidden in their dance… Also see: https://so05.tci-thaijo.org/index.php/PSAKUIJIR/article/view/217176

Muay Jeung is the real indigenous “Wushu Kung Fu” (martial art high-level skill) of the Lanna Kingdom with its capital in Chiang Mai, Thailand. And, sorry but not taught to the general public.

CHAPTER 2 56 Illustration 4: Inao dances with his kris, mural painting, Wat Somanat,

Bangkok, picture by DavisakdPuakson, 14 October 2005. Incidentally, the “Kris” (wavy sacred knife) is used mainly in Malaysia, Indonesia, and South Thailand, but is not a weapon in Muay Jeung.

I am very thankful to Coaches Sergei ad Kru Mac for 1. being great coaches at Decathlon as they are helping many boys and young men develop (boxing and Muay Thai) skills that will strengthen them for life, and 2. Kru Mac, Min, and Vida for taking so much time to speak with me and being wonderful guides to a healthy, beautiful natural complex world most people would never even imagine existed here or anywhere. My journey here would not have been complete without them.

You can also see some short videos of Kru Mac’s demonstrations of Muay Jeung on my TicTok and YouTube channels.

Just for the record, Muay Jeung is secret, but they are not hiding.

Finally, wrapping it up here in Chiang Mai is not easy. I came here in October 2022, and now, at this writing, it’s June 2023 already. One of the reasons is Chiang Mai is one of the most curious and interesting places I’ve ever encountered. On almost every one of the thousands of small winding streets and alleys one will encounter the most amazing places and people. Take for example this gentleman:

I biked and jogged right by his place half a dozen times always wondering who worked there and what the story is. Then, a few days ago I did and Wow! Another amazing adventure. This man knows, loves,and protects elephants and the ecology.

You see what I mean about Chiang Mai?

What’s next for the Silk Road Kung Fu and Taekwondo Friendship Tours?

We’ll check the winds and set sail soon!

For The Silk Road Kung Fu Friendship Tour Part 44, click here.