For The Silk Road Kung Fu Friendship Tour Part 1, click here.

July 14–15, 2015: Days 1 and 2

Introduction

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

I left Beijing on July 14 at 5:37 pm on a high-speed electric train and arrived in Xian at 12:08 am. Hotel check-in went smoothly, all good.

Wednesday, July 15

Waking at 6, I had a good hotel breakfast, then headed off to Xi’an Physical Education University for a 9:00 am appointment and was greeted at the West Gate by Chao Yuan, a graduate of the Physical Education University and assistant teacher in the International School, who helped with translations. He kindly guided me to the office of Professor Qiang Lei, Director of the Center for International Exchange. I had corresponded with him for weeks before departing on my trip, so I knew him at least a little before getting there. For example, I’d found out we were both born in the Year of the Monkey and in Asia. In China, that is a significant bond.

We sat down in his office, and he outlined the basic plan he had kindly arranged for me for the day. This included a visit to watch and interview their internationally acclaimed Sanda team and coaches, followed by a break during which time I could visit the essential Bell Tower, as well as the Great Mosque of Xian. Then, at 3:00 pm, I could meet with the Director of the Chinese Martial Arts Institute and PhD of Chinese Martial Arts, Ma Wenguo, as well as some of his senior staff. [The Mas are a famous martial family in Xian; see our NOV+DEC 2002 Cover Story on Ma Xianda. –ED] This was a fortuitous beginning for me; his well-organized schedule indicated he understood my needs and the time limits of my ambitious summer plan. I’d visited Xian a couple of years earlier and was familiar with some of the famous historical attractions like the Terracotta Warriors. One cannot see even 1% of Xian in a single day, so I especially appreciated the help of Professor Qiang Lei.

After this short meeting, Chao Yuan and I walked over to the large Sanda gym and upon entering immediately noticed that about 35 students were working kicks and punches full blast, reminiscent of the gladiatorial training of the past, sans weapons. I was introduced to Coach Zhao Xue Jun, who summarized the program for me and invited me to interview and photograph as I liked. He then pointed out three of the most illustrious of their team.

During that initial conversation with Coach Chao Yuan, I found out that their Undergraduate Program at the university has around 6,000 students, with another 1,000 graduate students enrolled. Right off the bat I was told they had a fairly high percentage of ethnic minorities, with students from Inner Mongolia being the largest of that diverse group. I also learned that Master Zhao had been coaching for some 21 years, and that including the students of his current students, he was the master/coach/teacher/trainer of thousands.

I walked around and took photos, focusing on the most skilled, precise and powerful. After a short while Coach Zhao introduced me to Ba Pe Er from Inner Mongolia. He reported having fought in 70–80 professional bouts, winning gold in 98% of them, which didn’t surprise me a bit after watching him work out for a while. I also learned that he competes in MMA and in kickboxing competitions. Knowing the grueling workout programs these young men endure for years, I usually ask about hobbies just to connect them with “normal” life, and found out that his hobbies include Tea, Dao, and fishing; also that he is married and his wife is due to give birth in less than a week. This gentleman is a success story in and outside the Sanda world.

I was also curious how many major competitions their teams entered every year and was more than a little surprised to find out the number is 40–50. That’s a brutal schedule for any fight team.

I wasn’t terribly surprised to find out that the CKF (Chinese Kung Fu – training school for professional Sanda fighters in Beijing) is heaving stocked with Zhao Xue Jun’s students at all levels, which makes sense given that he started the first MMA program in China back in 2007. In fact, many of Beijing’s best Wushu training programs have graduates of Xian Physical Education University – so highly is it esteemed in China and the world.

Next I was introduced to handsome young heavyweight champion Xin Ge Le. Weighing in at 94 Kilos, he towers above the rest of us at 1.9 meters. So far he’s participated in approximately 50 competitions, winning “almost every one.” Though a heavyweight, he moves like a lightweight, fast, precise, but with awesome power.

After that short interview I asked Coach Zhao what percentage of his fighters go on to become coaches themselves after their competition careers.

“About one third become coaches, another third goes into security work of some kind, like maybe executive security services (high-priced and high-tech bodyguards for VIPS) and the other third goes into some other kind of professional work.”

I was curious if a Physical Education University would have a massage program and, if they did, did they practice with his fighters who obviously would have need of some serious sports massage after their hard training.

“Well, there is a sports massage program here,” he said, “but the departments are divided in such a way that, no, we don’t get any free massages here.” He kind of laughed as he said this and I could appreciate his humor. I found a blind older Swedish massage lady when I was competing (Karate Kung Fu, Taekwondo, and Judo tournaments) a lot some 30 years ago, and that masterful woman healed me so many times I couldn’t count. So naturally I was curious if their fighters got that kind of care. “The budget here is tight,” Coach Zhao said, to which I responded, “Well, I hope they get good sports massage somewhere.” Coach Zhao smiled again.

I asked if they actively sought sponsors (like Anta, Li Ning, Lenovo, Coca Cola, whatever) to help provide extra support services and funding for their team, but it seems they don’t at this time. Still, I could see that these Sanda guys (and ladies!) here in this gym could make much better dramatic action TV commercials than Michael Jordon (Sorry Michael, but this gym is filled with a variety-pack sized army of Bruce Lees!).

Writer G. Brundage with Super Sanda Team at Xian Phy Ed University.

On the subject of money, Coach Zhao told me the highest-paid Chinese Sanda fighters might get $10,000 for winning a big competition, which we both know is a lot less than an American MMA fighter might get for a big match. “China concentrates on the Olympic program,” he explained, “so there’s little support for other professional and amateur sports.” China is not unique in this regard, and I heard it time and again in different countries. Still, their gym is quite nice and the trainer Coach Zhao is the best of the best. Their team is tough, young and talented. There is no limit to the kind of opportunities that await those who survive this rigorous program.

After this enlightening interview Coach Zhao introduced me to Sanda super-star Wang Guan from Liao Ning whom I’m told has been offered a UFC contract, though at this time he’s still weighing his options. We chatted for half an hour about sports medicine, nutrition and the future and parted friends, as I had to visit the Bell Tower and a couple of other places before 3:00 pm for my interview with Master Ma Wenguo, Director of the Chinese Martial Arts Institute at Xian Physical Education University (for those who might not know, Xian is a big city with approximately 8 million people).

On the way out of the gym I took some photos with my new Sanda friends, and then my friendly translator Chao escorted me to the street so I could hop a taxi and get to the true starting point of the ancient and modern Silk Road, the Bell Tower!

Bell Tower
With the fall of the Tang Dynasty (due to growing unrest, including the Huang Chao Rebellion (874–884)) Chang’an (ancient Xian) entered a period of decay, though it continued as a major trade center. It regained much of its former majesty in the Ming Dynasty, and the famous Bell Tower (Zhong Lou) was built in 1384. Though a late-comer in historical terms, it is often used as the symbolic starting point of the Silk Road.

The tower is located at the intersection of southern, northern, eastern and western roads that lead to the main gates of the City Wall. Nowadays it’s in the very middle of a large busy intersection, but getting there is easy because of an underground walkway with shops and such. Entering the Bell Tower is like walking back in time, an incredible experience not be missed. The crowded city seems to disappear within the thick ancient walls. An ancient sword collection first drew my attention, but soon I moved on, exploring each fascinating floor before climbing to the next.

There is a legend about the tower relating to a huge underground snake believed to be the cause of earthquakes in the city. The bell consequently was designed to drive the snake out of China. Another old story goes that when an older bell, called Jingyun, of the Tang Dynasty stopped ringing, it signaled the end of the Dynasty. Another smaller bell was cast and installed in the tower’s northwestern corner. In any case, the ringing of the bell early every morning signaled the opening of shops and the beginning of work in the city.

The first bell, by the way, is still around, located in the Xian Forest of Stone Steles Museum. So of course I had to go there, take some photos, including me with the famed Bell, soak in the atmosphere a while, before moving on to my next destination.

Great Masjid of Xian has gardens, pagodas, and peace in the modern world.

Masjid (Arabic for Mosque)
The Great Mosque of Xian is the oldest and most beautiful Masjid I have ever seen. The flowing gardens, the ancient buildings and other rudiments are really, really old, not reconstructed like so many other religious buildings in China. Why? It has to do with history. When the Chinese trying to bring down the corrupted Qing Dynasty (the last imperial dynasty in China) finally gave up – due to the absolutely ruthless slaughters of huge populations by those dynastic rulers – only the Hui Muslims kept fighting, and eventually won. As reward for their huge sacrifice, after the founding of the modern China in 1949, Muslims and Islamic properties were protected in a way not enjoyed by other people and religions in China. Hui Muslims for example have been exempt from the one child policy. It’s a dramatic and glorious part of Chinese history most people miss.

Originally built in 742, the Great Masjid of Xian was founded during the Tang Dynasty (618–907), though most of the buildings were constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644). It is, in my opinion, one of the world’s most peaceful and beautiful places, timeless in a sacred way. I spent time there and made friends with some older gentlemen who seemed as timeless as the Masjid itself. It was a powerful experience for me, and remains an important stop for all Muslims traveling the Silk Road for the past 1,300 years.

Front building at the famed Xian Phy Ed University.

Back at Xian Sports University
In the afternoon I met Chao again at the West Gate of the University. He took me to the second series of interviews there, this time with Master Professor Ma Wenguo, Director of the Chinese Martial Arts Institute at Xian Physical Education University and PhD of Chinese Martial Arts. Escorted into a large conference room, I was surprised and delighted for find about 8 Wushu masters waiting there for me.

Master Ma opened the interview by briefly introducing everyone, then said that at Xian Physical Education University the emphasis is on training and that their Wushu program focuses on Northwest Chinese Martial arts, which is a somewhat different curriculum than one might find in Beijing or in the South of China.

He said they focus on five main styles:

1.  Fanzi – In the 1920s this style was brought from the northeast to the northwest. It focuses on short distance punches similar in some ways to Western style boxing.
2.  Pigua Quan – Also from Hebei, this style uses more long-range techniques and focuses on open palm strikes.
3.  Baji Quan – Close-range fighting using mainly hands and elbows, famed around China for its up-close explosive power.
4. Tongbi Quan – This style was a bit difficult to figure out, but I finally learned that it resembles an animal form, specifically gorilla!
5. Chuo Jiao – Lower kicks, like kickboxing, the main style of northwest martial arts.

I also asked him about traditional styles vs. the “New Wushu,” and he said they only teach traditional styles, but that the Wushu exercises are useful for basic training. “We use the whole body, and must learn to do that effectively,” he said. According to him, “Wushu” is a new word, but “Wu Lin” (martial art circles) are ancient indeed in China.

He talked about the different styles of five different provinces, like Shanxi, and Gansu (“Closing Hands style” of Fengshou Quan), and the martial arts of Ninxia (so-called “Muslim Kung Fu,” Xi Liangzha). This was interesting to me because his family name “Ma” is the most famous name associated with Muslim martial arts in China. According to him, this Fengshou Quan was started by General Ma Chao during the Three Kingdoms period of Chinese history (and yes, that’s the same family name of the gentleman I was interviewing, Ma Wenguo).

Ms. Xu Lin Director of Taolu Xian Phy Ed University

He also talked about “Red Boxing” (Hong Quan) and three kinds of cudgel (a very popular weapon in the northwest, he said), long, medium and short used for chopping, sweeping and thrusting. He also talked about five kinds of spears. Using some body language, he illustrated how different weapons movements could be used for standing fighting as compared to fighting on horseback.

Master Ma also talked about history and mentioned that some of China’s best traditional martial arts and books were better preserved in other countries.

We talked about halberds (yuen jiu) and yan yue dao and General Yu Da You of the Ming Dynasty, as well as the monks Zhong Qin and Hong Zhuan.

Master Ma mentioned that Xian Sports University has 29 members on its Wushu demonstration team. He said there were about 500 students in the Taolu program. Other martial arts programs at the university include Sanda, Taekwondo, boxing, wrestling ( Shuai Jiao), Muay Thai, and Karate, but the emphasis is on classical Chinese martial arts.

After this Master Ma opened the conversation more broadly and we talked with the distinguished faculty, there followed more introductions. I found out for example that Miss Xu Yin (wearing a red shirt in photos) is the Director of the Taolu program, and Luo Xuelin (in black) is the primary coach for Fanzi Quan Boxing; Mr. Tang Jun (white T shirt) specializes in Mantis and Guo Yu, though teaching at another university is the master of Baji Quan.

It was my impression that Master Ma Wenguo is master of them all.

I asked Master Ma what students and other faculty call him, as there are so many titles and honorifics in China it’s sometimes difficult to know what to call someone. Did people usually call him Shifu? “No,” he said. “In Japan and Korea titles and formalities are very important, and it was that way in the old China; but in the New China people like to deemphasize all that so people usually call me ‘Ma Laoshi,’ which simply means ‘Teacher Ma.’” A humble title for such an internationally acclaimed master! Anyways, I hope he doesn’t mind me calling him Master Ma, for that’s certainly what he is. Talking about his resume, he mentioned that he’s done seminars and other guest teaching in more than 20 countries over the years, and in some cases in Western countries has been paid $1,000 per hour for teaching – which doesn’t surprise me in the least, because this gentleman is the real deal, connected to the most ancient of the ancient martial arts while simultaneously being a modern man who happens to speak English fluently and knows the world.

Writer with Great Masters of Kung Fu at Xian Sports Unversity Left to right Luo Xue Lin, Guo Lu,
writer G. Brundage, Master Ma Wenguo, Miss Xu Yin, Mr. Tan Jun

After this we all went outside, and the masters of Xian’s most illustrious Kung Fu training university very generously demonstrated some small parts of their encyclopedic knowledge of the Taolu of their respective arts. Watching it was beauty to behold, and I only wish I’d brought a video recorder. As it was, I got some fantastic photos and will remember that experience forever. It was an awesome honor to witness and I deeply appreciate their time and effort.

In the evening I visited the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, and watched the sun set over the repository of Xuan Zang’s efforts. It was sublime.

My visit to Xian was enormously successful, and I really have to give special thanks to Qiang Lei for organizing a fantastic day, Coach Zhao and all his fantastic Sanda team members, Ma Wenguo and his legendary faculty, and also my escort and translator around the university Chao Yuan for an unforgettable day of Kung Fu in the ancient capital of China, Xian. This was a most excellent start to my Silk Road Kung Fu Friendship Tour. I plan to come back here. It’s a beautiful place with kind-hearted, good people who happen to be true masters of Sanda and northwest Chinese styles of Kung Fu.

For The Silk Road Kung Fu Friendship Tour Part 3, click here.